Tuesday 29 June 2010

Escape The Heat


Escape the Heat

As a child growing up in the UK, the summer holidays were a constant source of excitement and bitter disappointment. For 10 months of the year a raincoat, umbrella and water-proof shoes would be stationed by the entrance hall, always in arms reach whenever venturing outdoors. And then the season would change, the air would be full of the smell of freshly cut grass, the early evening tranquillity cut, albeit temporarily, by the sound of the ice-cream van as it lingered on the street corner enticing the local neighbourhood with it’s gentle music and promise of iced delights from within. The BBQ would be wheeled out from its 10 month hibernation, dusted off and lit. We would plan day trips to the sea-side as we feasted on slightly undercooked chicken and over cooked sausages. As the eagerly anticipated trip to the coast grew closer, buckets and spades would gather by the entrance hall, beach balls and suntan lotion would be stock piled next to them, it would be the best summer holiday ever! And then, of course, the sun would disappear behind the clouds and it would rain, dampening all hopes of a day on the beach. The BBQ would be covered and wheeled back into hibernation and boredom and despair would settle in. These are my memories of Summer in the UK. I may have exaggerated slightly, I can certainly remember a few long, hot, dry summers accompanied by hose-pipe bans to try and conserve the water. I can also remember many wonderful trips to the beach accompanied by varying levels of sun-burn or sun-stroke.

The point of this article, however, is not to reminisce, but rather to strategise a game plan for those stationed in this beautiful city for the next 5 months. Summer in Bucharest can get hot. I don’t mean ‘warm’ or ‘humid’ or even ‘slightly uncomfortable’, I mean ‘blisteringly’ hot, ‘surface-of-the-sun’ hot.

The easy answer may be to just position yourself directly under the nearest air conditioning unit and not move for a few months, but for many this is simply not an option. For the vast majority, daily actions such as work, shopping and socialising must continue.

Many Buchurestians will simply head for the mountains or the Black Sea Coast. Bucharest, you see, sits in the middle of a large flat expanse of land with a mountainous region to the north and a coastal region to the east. The mountains, as well as offering beautiful scenery and wildlife offer a much cooler climate due to their positioning above sea level. The coastal region consisting of the main town, Constanta and its neighbouring holiday resort Mamaia offers a large expanse of sea front with cooling light winds and of course the ability to take a dip in the Black Sea to cool off from the ever prominent heat. There are endless terraces and bars to choose from to sit and relax with your favourite iced beverage and it’s not uncommon to find Djs playing the latest music on the beach front whilst holiday makers frolic amidst the waves. Both options, be it the mountains or the beach contain numerous Hostels, Inns and Hotels which can rapidly become full over the weekends, so keep that in mind when planning an escape from the city.

Whilst these two options ensure a relaxing weekend, they do not solve the problem of the weekday grilling you may feel you’re receiving in the city between Monday and Friday.

Many a warm summers evening I’ve found myself in one of the city’s numerous shopping malls, not only do they offer a plethora of shops, cafes and restaurants, but they nearly all benefit from being very well ventilated, helping to keep you at a pleasant temperature. One trick that worked for me last year was to escape the heat of the afternoon by venturing to the cinema. Again they keep the majority of cinema screens at a very tolerant climate and I found it a great way to keep up with the endless stream of summer blockbuster films whilst not feeling like my blood was literally boiling in my veins.

Another option is to head for the tranquillity of one of the city’s parks. Whilst there is no direct evidence that the temperature is any cooler than the street, the simple act of sitting under the shade of a tree, or on a terrace, can have wonderful results. My favourites are Cismigui in the centre and Herastrau in the north of the city although I have been told Parcul Carol and Parcul Tineretului, both slightly south of Unirii Square are equally cooling and attractive.

At this point it is maybe wise to give a few hints on where to avoid. For some, using the public transport system in the city will be a daily necessity, however, be warned, the vast majority have no air conditioning. Windows stay open on trams, buses and the metro which allow for a mild breeze whilst the vehicle is in motion, but the second it stops the heat can rise to almost unbearable levels. This coupled with the fact that at peak times (between 8-10am and 5-7pm) overcrowding is common, can often mean that I avoid them altogether. Bucharest certainly doesn’t need more cars on the road, but there is a luxury in being able to travel with air conditioning that public transport, at the moment, simply cannot match.

The next question, assuming you’ve escaped at least the worst of the heat and are sitting in a shaded cafĂ©, bar or terrace, must be, ‘what to drink?’ What one drink could possibly quench your thirst whilst cooling you down? For this there can be only one answer, Romanian ‘Lemonade‘. Here they serve the most refreshing, simple iced lemon beverage known to man. It took me a while to be swayed by its enticing almost magical properties, but once I had tried it I knew there was no going back to my favourite brand of soda. Usually mixed by hand with fresh juice, the lemonade not only takes the sting out of the midday sun but also serves you up a generous dose of vitamin C. Scan the menu for popular alternatives such as lemonade served with mint, or often with orange and lime, delightful alternatives on the classic recipe and equally delicious.

With these hints and tips it is possible to enjoy all Bucharest has to offer this summer, whilst maintaining a regular temperature and cheery disposition. And remember, if all else fails, head to the mountains, that’s where I’ll be.

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