Papanasi

I've been writing a few articles for a local magazine, thought I'd share them here for those interested.

Papanasi
Romania’s Best Kept Secret
More than 100 hundred years ago, Lin Yutang, a Chinese academic wrote, "Our lives are not in the lap of the gods, but in the lap of our cooks."
For some, food is simply fuel, eating is merely a task to enable the body and mind to function. For others, however, food can transcend the ordinary and become something quite surprising, something magical. I have a secret that I would like to share, I have found a little piece of that culinary magic here in Bucharest.
Before I begin to tell the story I feel it only wise to document my initial perception of Romanian cuisine. I am by no means a food connoisseur, although I do take a healthy interest in the world of gastronomy. I wanted Romanian food to surprise and enlighten me, I wanted it to help educate me in the subtle vibrations and meanderings of this hidden city. I wanted it to provide a window into the city’s culture and traditions, a spyglass from where I could understand better what it is to be Romanian. What I found after my initial search was wholesome, healthy plates of food that almost met my expectations, but ultimately left me disheartened.
But then it happened. I found the magic.
It was a bitterly cold February evening, the restaurant was chosen by Romanian friends because the Ciorba de Burta (Tripe Soup) was apparently the best in Bucharest. They were right, it was good soup, equally impressive was how they showed me to add vinegar to the soup and salt to the pickled chilli served with it before eating to enhance the flavour.
For our main course we were served a large plate of grilled Pork in a spicy tomato sauce. It was a dish that requires no effort to grow very fond of. What it lacked in refined presentation or fancy garnish it more than compensated for in great flavour and texture.
I would not usually eat dessert but my Romanian friends assured me that the chef makes a superb dish called ‘Papanasi’ and that I would be foolish not to try it. I had followed their advice up until this point in the evening and had been guided through the menu superbly by them. They had my trust and I willingly accepted their recommendation. At this point I must stress that the meal had been enjoyable, the food was more than adequate and the bottle of Transylvanian red wine excellent.
Then the dessert arrived. Two large ringed doughnuts, generously topped with a rich, sweet fruit jam and a decadent mountain of cream. I am not sure what I was expecting but it was not this. Almost immediately I sensed the aroma of freshly cooked dough with the sublime sweetness of the fruit jam and cream.
The first bite revealed to me that what I thought was a doughnut was actually far more refined and much less sweet. I have since discovered that the key ingredient in Papanasi is a soft Farmers cheese found in most markets across the country.
By the third mouthful I was hooked, this was like a drug. What started as a warm comforting experience was spiralling out of control. Despite my stomach telling me that it was full, my eyes, hands and mouth kept on working to devour all that was in front of me. This dish requires a strong spirit and even stronger willpower, the voice inside my head was screaming at me to stop eating, but I ignored it and instead focused my energy into remembering to schedule at least two extra gym visits the following week and pondering whether a walk into work instead of using the car might be the wisest choice of action.
It is true that Papanasi is not the lightest, most health conscious dish to end a large meal with, but it is by far the most seductive, devilish and decadent plate of food I have discovered in Bucharest so far.
So what does Papanasi tell us about the Romanian people? Does it describe their tenacity, their strong belief in family values, their unrepentant efforts to forge a worthwhile and powerful position in Europe? Quite possibly, but I think it also tells us that they really know how to enjoy a meal.
Just don’t forget to schedule those extra gym visits.